Tall houses painted ochre, red and yellow lining both banks of a calm river, with a red iron footbridge in the distance

Catalonia, Spain

Girona

Houses along the Onyar river in Girona. (Richard Mortel from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0)

A provincial capital in north-eastern Catalonia, about 100 kilometres north-east of Barcelona, where four rivers meet on the corridor between the Costa Brava and France. Roman Gerunda, a medieval city of counts and a celebrated Jewish community, it has undergone some twenty-five sieges; today its walled old town, coloured river houses and vast cathedral draw visitors from Barcelona.

Neighbourhoods

  • Barri Vell
    • First-time visitors
    • Historic district
    • Jewish heritage

    The old town on the steep hill east of the Onyar, enclosed by its rebuilt walls: the cathedral and its stairway, Sant Feliu, the Arab Baths, Sant Pere de Galligants and the narrow lanes of the Call, the medieval Jewish quarter. Its streets climb in steps and are best explored on foot.

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  • Mercadal and Plaça de la Independència
    • Cafés
    • Shopping
    • Nightlife

    The flat district across the river from the old town, centred on the arcaded 19th-century Plaça de la Independència, dedicated to the defenders of the Napoleonic sieges. The surrounding streets are a busy hub of shops, cafés and restaurants.

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  • Eixample
    • Close to public transport
    • Quiet and residential

    The modern city on the plain west of the river, around the railway and bus stations, with everyday shops, the Mercat del Lleó and the large wooded Parc de la Devesa at its northern edge.

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  • Montjuïc
    • Viewpoints
    • Quiet and residential

    The hill just north of the old quarter, long uninhabited except for the medieval Jewish cemetery and a 17th-century bastion, now a residential neighbourhood with views over the city.

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Things to do

The old town

  • Girona Cathedrallandmark

    Approached by a stairway of some ninety steps, it has the widest Gothic nave in the world, about 23 metres across, a 12th-century Romanesque cloister and a treasury holding the Tapestry of Creation of around 1100.

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  • Basilica of Sant Feliulandmark

    A mainly 14th-century Gothic church with a Baroque facade finished in the early 17th century and a Gothic bell tower, holding Roman and early Christian sarcophagi and the Gothic tomb of Saint Narcissus.

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  • Sant Pere de Galligantsmuseum

    A Romanesque Benedictine abbey church of about 1130 beside the Galligants stream, home since 1857 to the Girona branch of the Archaeology Museum of Catalonia.

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  • Arab Bathslandmark

    Medieval bathhouses in the old town, separated from a convent in 1929 and opened to visitors.

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  • Passeig de la Murallatrail

    A walk along the city walls, Roman in origin, rebuilt in the 14th century and reconstructed in 1983–2003, with towers to climb for views over the rooftops and countryside.

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Jewish Girona

  • The Callneighborhood

    The medieval Jewish quarter, sealed off and built over after 1492 and restored in recent decades; doorways such as one on Carrer de Sant Llorenç still show the indentation that once held a mezuzah.

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  • Museum of Jewish Historymuseum

    In the Bonastruc ça Porta centre on Carrer de la Força, the site of a 15th-century synagogue, telling the story of the Jewish community that flourished here until 1492.

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The river and parks

  • Cases de l'Onyarlandmark

    The houses lining the river, mostly 19th-century, painted in a palette of 29 colours in 1982 as a sign of change after the Franco years.

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  • Pont de les Peixateries Velleslandmark

    The iron footbridge over the Onyar, opened in 1877 and built by Gustave Eiffel's company.

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  • Parc de la Devesapark

    A large wooded park near the meeting of the rivers, crossed by cycle and walking paths, with a flea market on the riverbank on Saturdays.

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Short trips from the city

  • Dalí Theatre and Museummuseum

    Salvador Dalí's own museum in his home town of Figueres, where he is buried in a crypt beneath the stage.

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  • Besalúattraction

    A medieval county capital with a fortified 12th-century Romanesque bridge over the Fluvià and arcaded streets and squares.

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  • Banyolesattraction

    A town about 15 kilometres north of Girona, capital of the Pla de l'Estany comarca, from which many residents commute to the city.

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Seasonal events

  • Girona, Temps de FlorsMay

    A week-long flower festival held since the 1950s, that has grown from a small exhibition into the city's biggest event.

  • Fires de Sant Narcíslate October

    The city's main fair and festival, held in the week of the feast of Saint Narcissus, the patron saint, on 29 October.

Eat and drink

Long-standing places and food districts in Girona. Hours, ratings and directions come from your maps app, always current.

Girona classics

  • El Celler de Can Rocarestaurant

    The Roca brothers' restaurant, opened in 1986 and holder of three Michelin stars, twice ranked the best restaurant in the world.

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  • Xuixos in the old towncafe

    Pastry shops and cafés selling the xuixo, Girona's own deep-fried, sugar-coated pastry filled with crema catalana.

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Food districts and markets

  • Plaça de la Independèncianeighborhood

    The arcaded square across the river from the old town, lined with cafés and restaurants, some of them long-established.

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  • Mercat del Lleómarket

    One of the city's markets, near the Alferes Huarte footbridge that crosses from Carrer del Carme.

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Experience Girona

History

The first inhabitants were Iberians, and Girona is the ancient Gerunda of the Ausetani people. The Romans built a citadel on the site and walled it in the 1st century BC, on a strategic corridor between the Empordà plain and the rest of Catalonia, linking the coast and France with Barcelona. The Visigoths ruled until the Moors took it in 715; Charlemagne retook it in 785, and it became one of the original counties of Catalonia before Wilfred the Hairy joined it to the County of Barcelona in 878.

A Jewish community is recorded from about 885 and flourished from the 12th century, when Girona had one of the most important Kabbalistic schools in Europe and its rabbi, Nahmanides, became Great Rabbi of Catalonia. The community ended in 1492, when Jews were forced to choose between conversion and exile; the Call was sealed off and built over. The county became a duchy in 1351, and since 1414 the heir to the throne has carried the title Prince of Girona.

The city lived through some twenty-five sieges. The most famous came in 1809, when about 35,000 Napoleonic troops besieged it from May to December; under Álvarez de Castro it held out until disease and hunger forced surrender, and the French ruled it until 1813. The western walls were demolished around 1900 to let the city grow, and the eastern ones were rebuilt between 1983 and 2003. After Franco's death, the excavation of the Call and the repainting of the river houses in 1982 marked a new confidence.

Culture & Customs

Girona's identity rests on its old town and its many layers of history. The rediscovery of the Call since the 1970s, with the Museum of Jewish History and the Nahmanides Institute in the Bonastruc ça Porta centre, has made it one of the best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters in the Iberian Peninsula. The cathedral's nave, the widest in Gothic architecture, and the coloured houses of the Onyar are the city's emblems, and the old town and cathedral have stood in for other places in films and in the sixth season of Game of Thrones.

The calendar peaks twice. Temps de Flors, which began as a small flower show in the 1950s, is held for a week each May and has become the city's biggest event. The Fires de Sant Narcís, in the week of the patron saint's feast on 29 October, are the city's main festival. Local legend asks every Gironí to kiss the bottom of the stone lioness, the Lleona, to be sure of a safe return home.

Sport has given the city a newer international profile. Since American riders of the US Postal Service team settled here in 1997, Girona has been a base for professional cyclists from around the world, who train on the roads of the surrounding hills. Girona FC, promoted to La Liga in 2017, finished third in 2023–24 and played in the Champions League, though it was relegated after the 2025–26 season. Human towers are built by the castellers of neighbouring Salt and the university.

Daily Life

About 106,000 people lived in the city in 2024, and about 156,000 in the urban area it forms with neighbouring Salt. Girona is the capital of its province and of the Gironès comarca, so administration, the university, the hospitals and services employ many residents, alongside tourism and the commerce of a regional centre.

The old town on the hill east of the Onyar is the visitors' Girona; most residents live on the plain to the west, in the Mercadal, the Eixample and the newer districts around the station. The river shapes daily life: it brought catastrophic floods in the past, and in summer it can dry to a trickle. In the evenings people meet in the Plaça de la Independència and along the river, and at weekends the Devesa park, with its paths and Saturday flea market, fills with families.

Day-trippers from Barcelona and the Costa Brava keep the old town busy in summer and during Temps de Flors, which drew more than 200,000 visitors in 2015.

Food

Girona shares the cooking of Catalonia: pa amb tomàquet, bread rubbed with tomato and oil, botifarra pork sausage, grilled vegetables as escalivada, and the picada of ground nuts that thickens stews. Calçots, a specially grown onion, are grilled for a calçotada, and crema catalana, a custard of egg yolk, milk and sugar, is the classic dessert.

The city's own sweet is the xuixo, a deep-fried, sugar-coated cylinder of dough filled with crema catalana, said to have been created in the 1920s by Emili Puig in a shop on the Carrer de la Cort Reial after a French pastry cook showed him how to make cream-filled pastries. It is eaten at breakfast or with an afternoon coffee and has spread to other cities in Catalonia and Valencia.

Girona is also known for fine dining. El Celler de Can Roca, opened by the brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi Roca in 1986 beside their parents' restaurant, holds three Michelin stars and was ranked the best restaurant in the world in 2013 and 2015. For everyday eating, the cafés and restaurants around the Plaça de la Independència and the Mercat del Lleó serve the city.

Planning tools

Budget

Girona is noticeably cheaper than Barcelona for rooms and meals, though prices rise during Temps de Flors in May and in summer. A weekday lunch menu is the best value. Many visitors come for the day from Barcelona, so evenings in the old town are quieter and rooms easier to find.

Daily Budget Midrange
USD 140–260 (mid-range hotel, restaurant dinners, cathedral and museum tickets, a train or bus day trip)
Daily Budget Shoestring
USD 65–100 (hostel or guesthouse, lunch menu and tapas, walking and local buses)

Stay the night to see the old town after the day-trippers leave; book well ahead for Temps de Flors week.

Best Time to Visit

Spring and early autumn. May brings Temps de Flors, when the city is at its most crowded, and late October the Sant Narcís fair. Summer is hot and the Onyar can shrink to a trickle; winter has frequent frosts but few crowds. Autumn and spring are also the wettest seasons.

Suggested Number of Days

The old town can be seen in a long day, but a night or two allows a slower pace. Three to five days, with a car or regional trains, make room for the surrounding towns, the Costa Brava and the foothills of the Pyrenees.

First Visit
1–2 days
With Surroundings
3–5 days

Transportation

The old town and the centre are walkable, and city buses link the station, Devesa park and the outer districts. Regional trains run north to Figueres and the French border and south to Barcelona, and buses serve the towns of the province. A car is the easiest way to reach the smaller villages and the coves of the Costa Brava.

High-speed trains to Barcelona are far quicker than the regional R11 service, which takes about an hour and a half.

Airport & Station Connections

Girona–Costa Brava Airport is about 12.5 kilometres south-west of the city, roughly half an hour by bus; Barcelona–El Prat is the larger alternative. The station west of the old town is on the high-speed line, with trains to Barcelona in about 40 minutes and through services to Madrid and France; slower regional trains also run to Barcelona. The AP-7 motorway passes the city.

Walkability

Excellent in the centre: the station is a short walk from the river, and several footbridges cross to the old town. The Barri Vell is steep, with stepped lanes, the cathedral stairway and the wall walk, so comfortable shoes matter; parts of the walls have uneven steps.

Safety

Spain is a safe country with low violent crime. Girona is a calm city; the main risk is opportunistic theft in the crowded old town during Temps de Flors and in summer.

Keep an eye on bags in crowds, and take care on the steep, uneven steps of the wall walk, especially when wet. Check current official travel advice before travelling.

Climate

A humid subtropical climate with hot summers and cool winters. Annual rainfall is slightly above 700 mm, with the wettest seasons in autumn and spring, and thunderstorms are most frequent in summer.

Summer
hot, though maximum temperatures above 40°C are very rare
Winter
cool, with frost on about 41 days a year between November and March; temperatures can fall below −2°C, but snow is rare

Local Customs

Catalan is the everyday language of the city, and a greeting in Catalan is appreciated. Lunch is the main meal and dinner is late. Local legend says that a true Gironí who wants to return safely from a journey must kiss the bottom of the Lleona, a stone lioness in the old town.

Dress modestly and keep voices low in the cathedral and churches, and avoid visiting during services.

Common Payment Methods

The currency is the euro. Cards and contactless payment are widely accepted; a little cash is useful for market stalls and small bars.