A curving cobbled street of tall stone buildings and colourful shopfronts hung with bunting, busy with walkers

Edinburgh, Glasgow & Southern Scotland, United Kingdom

Edinburgh

Victoria Street, curving down from the Old Town towards the Grassmarket in Edinburgh. (rboed* / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0)

Scotland's capital, on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, grew up as a royal burgh on the ridge running down from its castle rock. The medieval Old Town and the Georgian New Town face each other across a valley of gardens and railway lines, and each August the city hosts the world's largest arts festival.

Neighbourhoods

  • Old Town
    • First-time visitors
    • Historic district
    • Nightlife

    The medieval city on the ridge between the castle and Holyrood, threaded by the Royal Mile, narrow closes and tall tenements. The Grassmarket and Cowgate below it are full of pubs, and during the August festivals the whole quarter is packed from morning to late night.

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  • New Town
    • Architecture
    • Shopping
    • Close to public transport

    The planned Georgian grid north of Princes Street Gardens, with long terraces, crescents and squares of honey-coloured stone. Princes Street, George Street and Waverley station are at its southern edge; together with the Old Town it forms a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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  • Leith
    • Best for food
    • Waterfront
    • Local life

    Edinburgh's old port on the Firth of Forth, a separate burgh until 1920, with restaurants and bars along the Shore, the Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal and a long, busy high street in Leith Walk. The tram has run here since 2023.

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  • Stockbridge
    • Cafés
    • Quiet and residential

    A former village on the Water of Leith, just north of the New Town, with independent shops, cafés and pubs along Raeburn Place and quiet streets of Georgian and Victorian houses near the Royal Botanic Garden.

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  • Dean Village
    • Historic district
    • Walks

    A former milling village in the deep glen of the Water of Leith below the New Town's west end, with old mill buildings and stone footbridges, reached on foot along the river walkway.

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  • Portobello
    • Beaches
    • Quiet and residential

    A seaside suburb east of the centre with a promenade fronting a wide sandy beach, where locals go on fine weekends.

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Things to do

Famous landmarks

  • Edinburgh Castlelandmark

    The fortress on Castle Rock, an extinct volcanic plug, holding the Honours of Scotland and St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in the city.

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  • Royal Milelandmark

    The chain of streets running downhill from the castle to Holyrood, the spine of the Old Town, with closes and courtyards opening off it.

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  • St Giles' Cathedrallandmark

    The High Kirk of Edinburgh on the Royal Mile, with its crown spire and the carved Thistle Chapel.

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  • Palace of Holyroodhouselandmark

    The monarch's official residence in Scotland, at the foot of the Royal Mile beside the ruins of Holyrood Abbey.

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  • Scottish Parliament Buildinglandmark

    Enric Miralles' building at Holyrood, home of the devolved parliament since 2004.

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  • Greyfriars Kirkyardlandmark

    An old churchyard of elaborate tombs below the castle, where the National Covenant was signed in 1638.

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  • Scott Monumentlandmark

    The tall Gothic spire in Princes Street Gardens raised to the novelist Walter Scott, with viewing platforms reached by spiral staircases.

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Museums and galleries

  • National Museum of Scotlandmuseum

    Scotland's national museum on Chambers Street, covering the country's history alongside natural history, science and world cultures.

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  • Scottish National Gallerymuseum

    The national collection of fine art in a neoclassical building on the Mound, between the Old and New Towns.

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  • Scottish National Portrait Gallerymuseum

    Portraits of famous Scots in a red sandstone Gothic Revival building on Queen Street in the New Town.

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  • Royal Yacht Britanniamuseum

    The former royal yacht, now a museum ship moored in Leith.

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Parks, hills and walks

  • Arthur's Seatviewpoint

    The main peak of the group of hills in Holyrood Park, an ancient volcano whose summit looks over the whole city and the Firth of Forth.

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  • Calton Hillviewpoint

    A hill at the east end of the New Town crowned by the unfinished National Monument, the Nelson Monument and the old City Observatory, with views along Princes Street.

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  • Princes Street Gardenspark

    Gardens in the valley between the Old and New Towns, laid out on the drained bed of the Nor Loch, below the castle.

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  • Royal Botanic Garden Edinburghpark

    A botanic garden founded in the 17th century, with glasshouses and a large rock garden north of Stockbridge.

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  • Water of Leith Walkwaytrail

    A riverside path following the Water of Leith through Dean Village and Stockbridge down to the port.

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Music, sport and nights out

  • Usher Hallattraction

    The city's main concert hall, opened in 1914, a curved Beaux-Arts building in the west end.

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  • Murrayfield Stadiumattraction

    The home of Scottish rugby and the largest stadium in Scotland, west of the centre.

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Short trips from the city

  • Forth Bridgelandmark

    The cantilever railway bridge of 1890 across the Firth of Forth at South Queensferry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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  • Rosslyn Chapellandmark

    A 15th-century chapel at Roslin, south of the city, known for its carvings.

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  • Linlithgow Palacelandmark

    The roofless royal palace beside Linlithgow Loch, west of Edinburgh, where Mary, Queen of Scots, was born.

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Seasonal events

  • Edinburgh International FestivalAugust

    The invited programme of classical music, opera, theatre and dance founded in 1947.

  • Edinburgh Festival FringeAugust

    The world's largest arts festival, an open-access festival of comedy, theatre and music in hundreds of venues across the city.

  • Royal Edinburgh Military TattooAugust

    Military bands and pipers performing nightly on the castle esplanade.

  • Edinburgh International Book FestivalAugust

    Talks and readings by writers from around the world during the festival month.

  • Edinburgh's HogmanayNew Year

    The city's New Year celebration, with a street party, concerts and fireworks over the castle.

  • Beltane Fire Festival30 April

    A night-time procession and performance on Calton Hill marking the beginning of summer.

Eat and drink

Long-standing places and food districts in Edinburgh. Hours, ratings and directions come from your maps app, always current.

Edinburgh classics

  • Salt and sauce chipsrestaurant

    Around Edinburgh the chip shop condiment is 'salt and sauce' — brown sauce mixed with water or malt vinegar — rather than the salt and vinegar preferred elsewhere in Scotland.

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  • Haggis, neeps and tattiesrestaurant

    Scotland's national dish, traditionally served with neeps and tatties — mashed swede and potatoes.

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Food districts

  • The Shore, Leithneighborhood

    The old quayside of Leith, lined with seafood restaurants, bistros and pubs facing the Water of Leith.

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  • Grassmarketneighborhood

    A long former market place below the castle at the foot of Victoria Street, lined with old pubs and restaurants.

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  • Stockbridgeneighborhood

    A neighbourhood of independent cafés, bakeries, delis and pubs along Raeburn Place and the streets by the river.

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Experience Edinburgh

History

The city's name goes back to Din Eidyn, the hillfort of Eidyn, thought to have stood on Castle Rock. Its siege by the Northumbrian Angles in 638 began three centuries of Germanic influence in the south-east, laying the ground for the Scots language, before the town passed to the Scottish kingdom in the 10th century. King David I founded the royal burgh in the early 12th century, and the town grew along the ridge from the castle down to the abbey of Holyrood.

Hemmed in on its ridge, Edinburgh grew upwards: as the population rose, houses along the Royal Mile and the Cowgate were built ever higher, and the tenements and closes became badly overcrowded. The town council founded the university in 1582. After the union of 1707 moved the parliament to London, in the later 18th century the planned New Town was laid out across the valley, while David Hume and others made it a centre of the Scottish Enlightenment. Between 1751 and 1831 the population nearly tripled.

In the 20th century slum clearance moved many Old Town families to new estates on the edges, and Leith, the port, was merged into the city in 1920. The first festivals in 1947 made Edinburgh an international arts city, and in 1999 a Scottish Parliament met here again for the first time since 1707, moving into its building at Holyrood in 2004. In July 2026 the city became the first in Scotland to charge visitors a levy on their stays.

Culture & Customs

Edinburgh's identity rests on its two towns — the dark stone of the medieval ridge facing the ordered Georgian streets across the gardens — and on its festivals. The International Festival and the Fringe, both founded in 1947, are joined in August by the Military Tattoo and the Book Festival; in 2025 the Fringe alone staged 3,893 shows across 301 venues. Hogmanay brings another huge crowd at New Year, and the Beltane Fire Festival lights up Calton Hill at the end of April.

It is also a literary city, the setting for Muriel Spark's The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, Irvine Welsh's Trainspotting, set in Leith, and Ian Rankin's Inspector Rebus novels, and Walter Scott's monument dominates Princes Street. Folk music is played in pubs across the Old Town and Leith, and the Usher Hall and the Playhouse host concerts and touring shows.

Football divides the city between Heart of Midlothian and Hibernian, the oldest city rivals in Scotland, while Murrayfield fills for Scotland's rugby internationals. Leith, with its own port history, still keeps something of an identity separate from the rest of the city.

Daily Life

The City of Edinburgh council area had an estimated population of about 530,000 in 2024, including outlying towns and villages. It has a young population, with a high share of people in their twenties and thirties drawn by four universities, and people of Chinese and Indian descent form its largest Asian communities.

The economy is one of the strongest of any British city, built on government, finance, law, universities and tourism; in 2023 its output per head passed London's for the first time. The same year the city drew about 5.3 million visits, making it the second most-visited place in Britain.

Most residents live in flats: tenements and blocks of flats have long housed more than half the population, from the Victorian streets of Marchmont and Leith to post-war estates on the edges of the city such as Craigmillar and Pilton. Daily life follows a quiet professional rhythm for most of the year and changes completely in August, when the festivals fill the centre.

Food

The national dish is haggis — sheep's heart, liver and lungs minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices and salt, mixed with stock and traditionally cooked in the animal's stomach — served with neeps and tatties, mashed swede and potatoes, and eaten as the main course of Burns suppers, held on or near 25 January.

Edinburgh's own chip-shop habit sets it apart from the rest of Scotland. In and around the city the usual condiment is "salt and sauce", the sauce being brown sauce mixed with water or malt vinegar, rather than salt and vinegar. A "fish supper" is the Scottish name for fish with chips, and Scotch pies are sold at football grounds.

For eating out, Leith is the city's main restaurant quarter, with seafood places and bistros along the Shore, while the New Town's streets, Stockbridge and the Grassmarket hold pubs, cafés and restaurants of every kind. Scotch whisky is explained at the Scotch Whisky Experience at the top of the Royal Mile and served in many of the city's pubs.

Planning tools

Budget

Accommodation is expensive, and in August, during the festivals, hotel rooms cost noticeably more. In July 2026 the city introduced a visitor levy, popularly known as a tourist tax, the first in Scotland. Food and drink cost about what they do in other large British cities, and the National Museum of Scotland is free.

Daily Budget Midrange
USD 220–380 (mid-range hotel, restaurant dinners, castle and palace tickets, trams and buses)
Daily Budget Shoestring
USD 90–140 (hostel bed, chip-shop and café meals, buses and walking)

Book August and Hogmanay stays months ahead, or stay in Glasgow and travel in by train.

Best Time to Visit

May to September has the longest days and the mildest weather, with June the lightest month. August is the festival month — the busiest and most expensive time of the year. Spring and autumn are quieter, and the Christmas season and Hogmanay bring crowds back in winter, when days are short and often grey.

Suggested Number of Days

Two or three days are enough for a first visit to the city itself. Four or five allow time for Leith and the coast and for trips along the Forth or into West Lothian. In August the crowds and the festival programme make everything slower, and many visitors stay longer.

First Visit
2–3 days
With Surroundings
4–5 days

Transportation

Lothian Buses cover the whole city and run night services. The single tram line links the airport with Haymarket, Princes Street, York Place and, since June 2023, Leith and Newhaven. Buses take exact change in coins or a contactless card, and tram tickets come from machines at the stops. Taxis wait outside Waverley and Haymarket stations. Parking in the centre is scarce and closely enforced, so a car is more trouble than help in the city.

Buy a tram ticket before boarding and pay contactless on the buses, as drivers give no change.

Airport & Station Connections

Edinburgh Airport, Scotland's busiest, is at Ingliston, about 6 miles west of the city centre. The Airlink 100 bus to Waverley Bridge takes 20–30 minutes; the tram is slower. Waverley, below Princes Street, is the main station for trains from Glasgow, the rest of Scotland and England, with Haymarket the second stop in the west end. Long-distance coaches arrive at St Andrew Square bus station nearby.

Walkability

The Old and New Towns are compact and best seen on foot, but the city is hilly and layered: bridges carry streets over lower ones without any link between them, and the railway and the glen of the Water of Leith block some direct routes. Expect steep climbs, steps and cobbles in the Old Town. Leith, Portobello and the Botanic Garden are easier by bus or tram.

Safety

The UK is generally safe, with the main risks being pickpocketing and phone theft in crowded parts of London and other cities, occasional late-night antisocial behaviour, and drink-related trouble around nightlife. Pickpockets operate in crowded places, and drunken behaviour is most likely after football matches and at pub closing times.

Keep valuables secure in crowds, especially in August, and take care on wet cobbles and steep closes. Check current official travel advice before travelling.

Climate

A mild, changeable maritime climate. Edinburgh is drier than Glasgow and the west, with rain spread fairly evenly through the year, but it is often windy, and easterly winds can bring haar, a persistent coastal fog, in off the Forth.

Summer
moderate — summer temperatures rarely exceed 22°C, although the city recorded 31.6°C in July 2019
Winter
cool, dark and damp — daytime temperatures rarely fall below freezing (0°C)

Local Customs

Edinburgh is a formal, professional capital by Scottish standards, but pubs are the centre of social life, and many host folk music sessions. Locals live with huge visitor numbers, especially in August: keep to one side on narrow pavements and do not block closes or doorways for photos. Tipping in restaurants is discretionary.

Supermarkets in Scotland do not sell alcohol between 10 pm and 10 am; ask before photographing people, including street performers off-stage.

Common Payment Methods

The currency is the pound sterling. Three Scottish banks issue their own sterling banknotes, which circulate in Scotland but are not legal tender. Contactless cards are accepted on the buses and at the tram ticket machines.