Kilkenny Castle's grey stone towers above a high wall and trees, with the River Nore and a riverside bar in front

Dublin & the East, Ireland

Kilkenny

The north side of Kilkenny Castle above the River Nore. (Zairon / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 4.0)

A small medieval city on both banks of the River Nore in the south-east of Ireland. It grew from St Canice's monastery into a walled Norman merchant town under the Butlers' castle and was briefly the seat of the Confederate Catholic government in the 1640s. Today it is known for its Medieval Mile, its craft and design tradition, its festivals and its hurlers.

Neighbourhoods

  • Hightown and the Medieval Mile
    • First-time visitors
    • Historic district
    • Shopping

    The old Anglo-Norman borough inside the walls, strung along the 'Medieval Mile' from the castle and The Parade up High Street and Parliament Street. The Tholsel, Rothe House, the Medieval Mile Museum and the narrow medieval alleys called the Slips are all here, with most of the city's shops and pubs.

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  • Irishtown
    • Historic district
    • Quiet and residential

    The area around St Canice's Cathedral at the northern end of the Medieval Mile, which grew up outside the Norman walls on the hill of the early monastery. Its streets are quieter than the centre.

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  • John Street and the east bank
    • Nightlife
    • Close to public transport

    Across John's Bridge on the east side of the Nore, John Street has pubs and the small Set Theatre, and is a short walk from the castle.

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Things to do

Castle and cathedrals

  • Kilkenny Castlelandmark

    Built in 1260 to control a ford of the Nore and long the seat of the Butlers, it was sold to the people of Kilkenny for £50 in 1967; its gardens and parkland are open to the public.

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  • St Canice's Cathedral and round towerlandmark

    A Church of Ireland cathedral in the Early English Gothic style, with a low central tower on black marble columns, beside the round tower of the early monastery that gave the city its name.

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  • Black Abbeylandmark

    A Dominican priory founded in 1225, one of the order's first houses in Ireland and still a Dominican priory.

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  • St Mary's Cathedrallandmark

    The Catholic cathedral of Ossory, built of local limestone between 1843 and 1857 on the highest point of the city, with a Madonna by Giovanni Maria Benzoni.

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  • St. Francis Abbeylandmark

    The ruins of a medieval Franciscan friary, a National Monument, beside the old Smithwick's brewery site.

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Museums and the Medieval Mile

  • Rothe Housemuseum

    A merchant's townhouse complex of three houses and courtyards built between 1594 and 1610, on the only complete surviving burgage plot in Ireland, with a reconstructed 17th-century garden.

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  • Medieval Mile Museummuseum

    St Mary's Church, first built in 1202, deconsecrated in 1957 and used as a museum of the medieval city since 2017.

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  • The Tholsellandmark

    The town hall on High Street, where the borough council met until it was abolished in 2014.

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  • Shee Alms Houselandmark

    A Tudor almshouse founded by the Shee family in 1582 to house twelve poor people.

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  • Butler Gallerymuseum

    A gallery of Irish and international art from the 18th century to now, founded in 1943 and now housed in the restored Evans' Home, with a wing for the painter Tony O'Malley.

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  • Smithwick's Experienceattraction

    Brewery tours on the Medieval Mile at the site where Smithwick's ale was brewed from the 1700s, and where Franciscan friars brewed before the Reformation.

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Hurling and the stage

  • Nowlan Parkattraction

    The county's main GAA stadium, opened in 1927 and home to the Kilkenny hurling team, which also hosts large summer concerts.

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Short trips from the city

  • Dunmore Caveattraction

    A limestone show cave at Ballyfoyle, known for its archaeological finds and as the site of a Viking massacre in 928.

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  • Kells Priorylandmark

    One of the largest medieval monuments in Ireland, an Augustinian priory founded in about 1193 beside the King's River, about 15 km south of the city.

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  • Jerpoint Abbeylandmark

    A ruined 12th-century Cistercian abbey near Thomastown, a national monument known for its stone carvings, with a visitor centre.

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  • Inistiogeattraction

    A small village on the Nore about 25 km south-east, entered over a ten-arch stone bridge, with a tree-lined square often used as a film location.

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Seasonal events

  • Kilkenny Roots FestivalMay bank holiday weekend

    Americana, bluegrass, folk and alt-country musicians playing in venues across the city, held since 1998.

  • Cat Laughs Comedy FestivalJune bank holiday weekend

    A comedy festival founded in 1994 and once called the 'best little comedy festival in the world'.

  • Kilkenny Arts FestivalAugust

    A festival of classical music, theatre, dance, visual arts and literature founded in 1974, when Seamus Heaney read at the first event.

  • Savour KilkennyOctober

    The city's annual food festival.

Eat and drink

Long-standing places and food districts in Kilkenny. Hours, ratings and directions come from your maps app, always current.

Kilkenny classics

  • Kyteler's Innrestaurant

    A pub in a building with parts dating to the 13th or 14th century, an inn since 1639 and linked by tradition to Dame Alice Kyteler, accused of witchcraft in 1324; it is known for traditional music.

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  • Marble City Barrestaurant

    A pub with tearooms on High Street, serving bar food in the middle of the Medieval Mile.

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Markets and food streets

  • Castle Yard food hallmarket

    The old castle stables opposite Kilkenny Castle, home to the national design and craft centre and a food hall.

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  • John Streetneighborhood

    The street running east from John's Bridge across the Nore, with pubs and the small Set Theatre.

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Experience Kilkenny

History

Kilkenny takes its name from Cill Chainnigh, the church of Cainnech or Canice, who founded a monastery in the 6th century on the hill where St Canice's Cathedral and its round tower now stand, in the Kingdom of Ossory. It was a major monastic centre by the 8th century. After the Norman invasion Strongbow, as Lord of Leinster, built a castle by the river, William Marshal gave the town a charter in 1207, and walls went up to protect the burghers of a Norman merchant town. The walled borough became known as Hightown, and the old church settlement outside it as Irishtown.

In 1324 the Bishop of Ossory, Richard de Ledrede, brought one of Ireland's earliest recorded witchcraft cases against Dame Alice Kyteler and her servant Petronella de Meath; Alice fled, and Petronella was burned at the stake. The Black Death arrived in 1348, and the Statutes of Kilkenny, passed here in 1367, aimed to halt the decline of the Hiberno-Norman lordship. After the rebellion of 1641 the city became the seat of the Irish Catholic Confederation, the "Confederation of Kilkenny", until the Cromwellian conquest of 1649. James II spent the winter of 1689–90 in the castle.

The Butler family, Marquesses of Ormonde, held the castle until 1967, when the 6th Marquess sold it to the people of the city for £50. The government's Kilkenny Design Workshops opened in the city in the 1960s and gave the city a lasting reputation for craft and design. Smithwick's ale was brewed here from 1710 until the brewery closed in 2013 and production moved to Dublin; the site is now a visitor centre.

Culture & Customs

Hurling dominates local life. Kilkenny has one of the most successful county hurling teams in the country, the players and their supporters are known as the Cats, and Nowlan Park, opened in 1927 and named after the long-serving GAA president James Nowlan, is their home ground; it also stages big summer concerts. Local schools are known for their hurling and camogie.

Kilkenny's theatre tradition goes back to 1366, when a Dublin company set up in the town. The Watergate Theatre is the centre for the performing and visual arts, Cleere's pub and theatre on Parliament Street hosts touring bands, and the Set Theatre on John Street is a smaller stage. The festival calendar is full for a city of its size: the Roots festival of Americana and bluegrass in May, the Cat Laughs comedy festival, founded in 1994, in June, the Kilkenny Arts Festival, founded in 1974, in August, and Savour Kilkenny in October. Since 2016 the city has also been the base for Rás na mBan, a women's cycle race.

Local black marble, known as Kilkenny marble, decorates many buildings and gives the city its nickname, the Marble City; it was used for the plinth of Richard III's new tomb in Leicester Cathedral. The tale of Alice Kyteler still feeds local folklore, and her name lives on in the pub on St Kieran's Street.

Daily Life

The 2022 census counted about 27,000 people in the urban area, the thirteenth-largest urban centre in Ireland; most of them live outside the old borough boundary, in suburbs that have grown around the medieval core. It is the county town and the seat of two bishops — Catholic at St Mary's and Church of Ireland at St Canice's.

The economy rests on services, tourism and food. Glanbia, one of the world's largest dairy and nutrition companies, grew out of the merger of County Kilkenny's village creameries and has its head office here, and the farmland around the city is given over to dairy and tillage. Hebron Industrial Estate is the main centre for industry, alongside newer business parks opened in the early 2000s. Tourism fills the centre in summer, when coach groups and day visitors walk the Medieval Mile.

Life is that of a busy county town: High Street shopping, the pub in the evening, and hurling at the weekend, when club and county matches draw much of the city to Nowlan Park and the surrounding pitches.

Food

Kilkenny's best-known product is Smithwick's, an Irish red ale first brewed here in 1710 by John Smithwick. Irish red ale takes its colour from kilned malts and roasted barley and is usually between 3.8 and 4.8 per cent alcohol. The brewery also made Kilkenny ale, a close relation; both are now brewed in Dublin, but the old site on the Medieval Mile runs brewery tours.

The county's farms supply much of what is eaten here. The fertile Nore Valley around the city is dairy and tillage country, and the creameries of the county were the origin of Glanbia. The Nore near Thomastown is known for its salmon and trout. The Castle Yard, in the old stables opposite the castle, has a food hall alongside the craft shops.

The old pubs are the places most visitors eat: Kyteler's Inn, in a building with a medieval vaulted undercroft, serves food with traditional music, and pubs along High Street, Parliament Street and John Street serve bar food. Each October Savour Kilkenny gathers the county's producers and cooks for the city's food festival.

Planning tools

Budget

Kilkenny is markedly cheaper than Dublin for rooms and meals, and makes a common base for the south-east. Prices rise on festival weekends and when Kilkenny's hurlers have big matches. The castle grounds, the Medieval Mile streets and the cathedral precincts cost nothing to walk.

Daily Budget Midrange
USD 190–330 (B&B or mid-range hotel, restaurant dinners, castle and museum tickets, a hire car for day trips)
Daily Budget Shoestring
USD 80–130 (hostel or simple B&B, pub food and market lunches, walking and the train)

Book well ahead for the Cat Laughs in June and the Arts Festival in August.

Best Time to Visit

May to September, when the days are long and the main festivals run — Roots in May, the Cat Laughs in June and the Arts Festival in August. Summer is also the hurling season. Savour Kilkenny brings food to the city in October; winter is quiet and damp, with short days.

Suggested Number of Days

The compact centre can be seen in a day or two. Three or four days allow for the abbeys, caves and river villages of the county, which need a car or a tour; a festival weekend is a reason to stay longer.

First Visit
1–2 days
With Surroundings
3–4 days

Transportation

The city centre is small enough to cover on foot. Buses and taxis serve the suburbs, but the abbeys, caves and villages of the county are much easier by car. The N10 links the city to the M9 motorway between Dublin and Waterford, the N77 to the M7 at Portlaoise, and the N76 to Clonmel.

Use the car parks just off High Street rather than driving into the narrow medieval centre.

Airport & Station Connections

Kilkenny MacDonagh station, close to the centre, is on the intercity line between Dublin and Waterford, with trains from Dublin Heuston. The nearest airports with scheduled flights are Dublin and Cork, each around 150 km away; most visitors arrive by train, coach or car.

Walkability

Very walkable: the Medieval Mile runs from the castle to St Canice's Cathedral through the main streets, with the river and the station a few minutes away. Some lanes and the Slips are steep and cobbled, and the climb to St Canice's and the cathedral round tower takes some effort.

Safety

Ireland is a very safe country, with low levels of violent crime. Kilkenny is a calm city; the main issues are busy pubs on festival and match nights and thefts from cars at scenic car parks in the countryside.

Leave nothing on view in parked cars and take care on narrow rural roads when visiting the county's abbeys and villages. Check current official travel advice before travelling.

Climate

A changeable oceanic climate with few extremes. Kilkenny Castle holds the record for the highest air temperature ever measured in Ireland, 33.3°C in June 1887, but such heat is very rare; showers are possible in any season.

Summer
mild — in nearby Carlow July averages highs of about 21°C; Kilkenny records some of the highest summer temperatures in Ireland, and its weather station's highest reading is 31.5°C, in June 1976
Winter
cool and damp — in nearby Carlow February averages lows of about 2°C; Kilkenny records some of the lowest winter temperatures in Ireland, down to −14.1°C in January 1979

Local Customs

People from Kilkenny are called 'Cats', and hurling is the dominant sport, with the county team followed across the city in summer. The pub is the centre of social life, and traditional music sessions are held in several of the old pubs. Road signs are in Irish and English.

A percentage tip is not usually expected, though 10–15% is standard in restaurants; leaving a few coins is considered polite, tipping is not expected in pubs, and a tip should reflect satisfaction with the service. Behave quietly in the cathedrals, which are working churches.

Common Payment Methods

The currency is the euro. Cards are accepted in most outlets; ATMs are on and around High Street. Keep a little cash for market stalls and rural sites.