Geilo

Geilo takes its name from the old farm Gjeilo, from a word for a fenced road for cattle. Until the early 20th century the upper part of Hallingdal, the Ustedalen valley, had only a few scattered farms, and there was no road across Hardangervidda to the west, only hiking trails.

The Bergen Line changed everything. Work crews laying track from both ends met at nearby Ustaoset in 1907, the station at Geilo, first named Gjeilo, opened on 21 December 1907, and in November 1909 the whole railway between Bergen and Oslo was opened. The station was built on the Gjeilo farm, and the tourist trade began when Lars Gjeilo fitted out rooms for a handful of guests arriving by train. The railway made Geilo the first skiing resort in the country, and it drove the growth of the village, its tourism and some small industry.

In the late 20th century Geilo emerged as one of the most popular winter resorts in Norway, within reach of both Oslo and Bergen. National Road 7 now runs through the town over Hardangervidda to the west, the lifts have spread across both sides of the valley and over the mountain into Havsdalen, and the hillsides have filled with holiday cabins — some among the most expensive in the country.

Skiing is the town's reason for being. Alpine slopes on both sides of the valley, an extensive cross-country network of around 220 km of tracks, telemark skiing, dog sledging, ski orienteering and kiting fill the long season, which runs from late autumn until late April. Evening skiing is possible most evenings, and a floodlit track and a biathlon range lie just behind the centre.

The town belongs to Hallingdal, a valley with strong folk traditions: the halling, an acrobatic dance in which the dancer kicks down a hat held high on a stick, the Hallingdal style of rosemaling, the painted floral decoration on furniture, and stave churches such as the one at Torpo, built in 1192, further down the valley. The bunad, the folk costume, is worn on Constitution Day and at weddings.

In summer the mood changes. Geilo becomes a base for hiking on Hallingskarvet and Hardangervidda, mountain biking on downhill trails and woodland paths, rafting, fishing and glacier walks, and for the Rallarvegen, the old navvies' road beside the railway that is now a popular cycle route.

Geilo had about 2,600 inhabitants in 2025. It is a centre within Hol Municipality and is primarily a ski resort, and its population is small beside the numbers of visitors who arrive in the winter season from December to Easter, when they greatly outnumber the locals.

The centre is compact: a few large wooden buildings hold supermarkets, sports shops, a newsagent, the tourist information and a police station, and a cinema, library and school stand a short way down the road. Geilohallen, the large sports hall, is home to the local sports club. Tourism is the main business, alongside some small industry, and after Gol, Geilo is the most important centre for services and trade in Hallingdal.

The town lies at about 800 metres above sea level, and its daily rhythm follows the snow: long months of skiing and busy holiday weeks, then quieter summers of walkers and cyclists passing through on the road and railway between Oslo and Bergen.

Food in Geilo is that of the mountain resorts of Hallingdal and inland Norway. Everyday staples include smørbrød, open sandwiches with several toppings, and brunost, the sweet brown cheese made from caramelised whey, eaten with bread. Lefse, a soft flatbread made from potato, milk or cream and flour, is a staple of the valleys.

Hearty home dishes suit the climate: fårikål, the mutton and cabbage stew counted as the national dish, in autumn; and kjøttkaker, meat patties of ground beef and onion in brown sauce.

Most eating out happens in the town centre, where cafés and restaurants share the wooden buildings with the supermarkets, and at the ski areas, where restaurants serve skiers on the slopes. Many visitors self-cater in cabins, stocking up in the supermarkets around the station. To drink, akevitt, flavoured with caraway or dill, is the traditional Norwegian spirit; supermarkets sell only beer up to 4.75 per cent, and wine and spirits come from the state Vinmonopolet shops or the bars and restaurants.