View from Twin Peaks over San Francisco towards the downtown towers

California, United States

San Francisco

The San Francisco skyline seen from Twin Peaks. (Tony Webster from Portland, Oregon, United States / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0)

A compact, hilly city at the tip of a peninsula between the Pacific and San Francisco Bay. A Spanish presidio and mission of 1776 became a boom town in the Gold Rush, was rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake, and grew into a centre of counterculture, gay rights and technology — a city of cable cars, summer fog, Victorian houses and very high costs.

Neighbourhoods

  • Union Square and the Financial District
    • First-time visitors
    • Shopping
    • Close to public transport

    The main shopping and hotel district around Union Square, with the towers of the Financial District to the east. Two cable car lines start near here, Market Street's BART and Muni stations are close by, and the Tenderloin lies just to the west.

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  • Chinatown
    • Best for food
    • Historic district
    • Local life

    The oldest Chinatown in North America, established in the early 1850s around Grant Avenue and Stockton Street. Grant Avenue has the gateway and souvenir shops; Stockton Street is where residents buy groceries, among markets and dim sum shops.

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  • North Beach
    • Best for food
    • Cafés and bars
    • Literary history

    The city's Little Italy and the former centre of the Beat Generation, with Italian cafés and restaurants below Telegraph Hill and Coit Tower, and Chinatown and Russian Hill on either side.

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  • Fisherman's Wharf
    • First-time visitors
    • Waterfront
    • Families

    The busy waterfront at the end of the cable car lines, with Pier 39, seafood stalls and restaurants serving Dungeness crab from a fishing fleet that still works here. The ferries to Alcatraz leave from Pier 33 nearby.

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  • Mission District
    • Best for food
    • Murals
    • Nightlife

    A flat, sunny district around Mission Dolores, the centre of the city's Latino community since the mid-20th century, known for taquerías, murals and bars; parts have been reshaped by the arrival of young tech workers.

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  • The Castro
    • LGBTQ history
    • Nightlife
    • Victorian houses

    A former working-class Scandinavian and Irish area that became an urban gay village in the 1970s, where Harvey Milk ran his camera shop and campaigns; a giant rainbow flag flies over Harvey Milk Plaza.

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  • Haight-Ashbury
    • Counterculture history
    • Vintage shopping

    The neighbourhood at the eastern end of Golden Gate Park associated with the hippies and the 1967 Summer of Love, now a district of boutiques and coffee shops among Edwardian and Victorian houses.

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Things to do

Famous landmarks

  • Golden Gate Bridgelandmark

    The suspension bridge across the Golden Gate strait, opened in 1937, when it was the longest and tallest suspension bridge in the world; it carries a footpath and cycle path to Marin County.

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  • Alcatraz Islandlandmark

    The island that held a federal prison from 1934 to 1963, now run by the National Park Service and reached by ferry from Pier 33; in May 2025 President Trump proposed reopening the prison.

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  • Cable carstransit hub

    The world's last manually operated cable car system, with three surviving lines climbing the hills between Union Square, Fisherman's Wharf and California Street.

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  • Coit Towerviewpoint

    A slender concrete tower on top of Telegraph Hill, with views over the bay and the city.

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  • Lombard Streetlandmark

    The block on Russian Hill, between Hyde and Leavenworth streets, where the road zigzags down the slope in tight hairpin bends.

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  • Mission Doloreslandmark

    The Spanish mission founded in 1776 that gave the city its name, with its old adobe church.

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Museums

  • San Francisco Museum of Modern Artmuseum

    SFMOMA, a large museum of 20th-century and contemporary art south of Market Street.

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  • de Young Museummuseum

    A museum in Golden Gate Park with American art and collections from Africa, Oceania and the Americas.

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  • California Academy of Sciencesmuseum

    A natural history museum in Golden Gate Park that also holds the Morrison Planetarium and the Steinhart Aquarium.

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  • Legion of Honormuseum

    A museum of mainly European art in Lincoln Park, in a building modelled on its Parisian namesake.

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  • Asian Art Museummuseum

    A museum devoted to Asian art, in the Civic Center.

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  • Exploratoriummuseum

    A hands-on museum of science, technology and the arts on Pier 15 on the Embarcadero.

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Parks, hills and the waterfront

  • Golden Gate Parkpark

    Over three miles of gardens, lakes and woodland laid out on former sand dunes from 1870, with the Japanese Tea Garden, the Conservatory of Flowers and museums.

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  • Presidio of San Franciscopark

    The former military post founded by the Spanish in 1776, now a large park of forest, trails and historic buildings beside the Golden Gate.

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  • Twin Peaksviewpoint

    A pair of hills near the centre of the city, among its highest points, with wide views over the city.

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  • Ferry Buildingmarket

    The ferry terminal on the Embarcadero, still used by commuter ferries, restored and redeveloped as a food marketplace.

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Sport and nights out

  • Oracle Parkattraction

    The waterfront ballpark of the San Francisco Giants, opened in 2000.

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  • Chase Centerattraction

    The arena in Mission Bay that opened in 2019 as the home of the Golden State Warriors basketball team.

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Short trips from the city

  • Muir Woods National Monumentpark

    A protected grove of old-growth coast redwoods in a valley across the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County.

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  • Sausalitoattraction

    A small waterfront town on the Marin County shore of the bay, reached by ferry or across the bridge.

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Seasonal events

  • Chinese New Year Festival and ParadeLunar New Year, January or February

    One of the largest Lunar New Year celebrations outside Asia, with a parade from Market Street to Chinatown.

  • Bay to Breakersusually the third Sunday of May

    A footrace across the city from the bay to the Pacific, held since 1912 and known for its costumes.

  • San Francisco PrideJune

    One of the largest and oldest Pride parades in the world, held every year since 1972.

  • Outside Landssummer

    A large music, food and wine festival in Golden Gate Park.

  • Hardly Strictly Bluegrassfirst weekend of October

    A free, non-commercial music festival in Golden Gate Park.

  • Fleet WeekOctober

    Navy ships visit and military aircraft perform over the bay, around the Columbus Day weekend.

Eat and drink

Long-standing places and food districts in San Francisco. Hours, ratings and directions come from your maps app, always current.

San Francisco classics

  • Tadich Grillrestaurant

    Founded in 1849, the oldest restaurant still running in California, a Financial District seafood house that grills fish over mesquite and charcoal.

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  • Mission burritosneighborhood

    The large rice-filled burrito, wrapped in foil, that became popular in the Mission's taquerías in the 1960s.

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Food districts and markets

  • Ferry Building Marketplacemarket

    Food shops, bakeries and restaurants inside the restored ferry terminal on the Embarcadero.

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  • Chinatownneighborhood

    Dim sum shops and Chinese restaurants along Stockton Street and Grant Avenue.

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  • North Beachneighborhood

    Italian restaurants and old cafés in the neighbourhood where immigrant fishermen, many from Genoa, created cioppino.

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  • Fisherman's Wharfneighborhood

    Seafood stalls and restaurants serving Dungeness crab and clam chowder by the water.

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Experience San Francisco

History

The Yelamu, a group of the Ohlone peoples, lived on the peninsula before Europeans came. In 1776 settlers from New Spain founded the Presidio at the Golden Gate and the Mission San Francisco de Asís, known as Mission Dolores, both named after St Francis of Assisi. Under Mexican rule the trading settlement of Yerba Buena grew up from 1834 around what is now Portsmouth Square; American forces took it in 1846, and in 1847 it was renamed San Francisco.

The Gold Rush changed everything. The population jumped from about 1,000 in 1848 to 25,000 by the end of 1849, and San Francisco became the largest city on the West Coast. Chinese immigrants built Chinatown, and the first cable cars climbed Clay Street in 1873. On 18 April 1906 a great earthquake and the fires that followed destroyed more than three-quarters of the city, including all of downtown, and left more than half its 400,000 people homeless. The city was rebuilt quickly and celebrated with the Panama–Pacific International Exposition in 1915.

During the Second World War the city was a major port for the Pacific. Afterwards the Beat writers gathered in North Beach, hippies came to Haight-Ashbury for the Summer of Love in 1967, and in the 1970s the Castro became the heart of the gay rights movement; Supervisor Harvey Milk and Mayor George Moscone were assassinated in 1978. The demolition of the Embarcadero Freeway in 1991 reopened the downtown waterfront. The dot-com boom of the late 1990s, its collapse in 2001, and later waves of technology companies have shaped the city since.

Culture & Customs

San Francisco has long been a centre of liberal politics and of movements that spread far beyond it, from the Beat poets and the 1960s counterculture to gay rights. San Francisco Pride, held every year since 1972, is one of the largest and oldest Pride parades in the world, and the Castro remains a symbol of LGBTQ life. Chinese New Year brings one of the largest Lunar New Year parades outside Asia.

About a third of the population is Asian American, and Chinese San Franciscans form the largest single ethnic minority. Chinatown, mostly Cantonese and Taishanese-speaking, keeps its own customs, temples and family associations, while many Chinese San Franciscans also live in the Richmond and Sunset districts. The Mission is the historic heart of the Latino city, known for its murals, and North Beach keeps its Italian character.

The city's cultural institutions include SFMOMA, the de Young, the Legion of Honor, the Asian Art Museum, the San Francisco Symphony, the Ballet and the Opera. Sport means the Giants, who moved from New York in 1958 and won the World Series in 2010, 2012 and 2014, and the Golden State Warriors. Bay to Breakers, a costumed footrace across the city held since 1912, and free festivals such as Hardly Strictly Bluegrass in Golden Gate Park show its playful side.

Daily Life

About 826,000 people lived in San Francisco in 2025, and some 4.6 million in its metropolitan area. The mainland part of the city is roughly seven miles by seven, making it one of the most densely populated large cities in the country. It ranks first among large US cities by income per head, and its cost of living is exceptionally high.

The economy is built on technology, finance, tourism and medicine. Salesforce, Uber, Airbnb, Levi's and Gap have their headquarters here, as do OpenAI and Anthropic, and many venture capital firms are based in the city. The pandemic emptied many downtown offices in the early 2020s as remote work spread, and the recovery of downtown, office vacancies and tax revenue are central local debates.

Homelessness has been a visible problem since the 1980s, concentrated in the Tenderloin and around Market Street; in May 2026 Mayor Daniel Lurie reported that the city's latest Point-in-Time count showed unsheltered homelessness at its lowest level in 15 years. Daily life runs on Muni, BART, bicycles and steep walks, and more than half of residents live in rented homes. The knowledge that the San Andreas Fault caused the earthquakes of 1906 and 1989 is part of life here.

Food

San Francisco's food reflects the waves of people who came by sea. Cioppino, a tomato-based stew of Dungeness crab, clams, shrimp and fish, was developed in the late 1800s by immigrant fishermen, many from Genoa, who lived in North Beach, and can be served with local sourdough bread. Dungeness crab is still landed at Fisherman's Wharf, and the stalls there serve it with clam chowder.

Chinatown, the oldest in North America, has dim sum shops and Chinese restaurants, and Chinese food spreads across the city in the Richmond and Sunset districts. The Mission District gave its name to the Mission burrito, a large flour tortilla, usually steamed, wrapped around rice and other fillings and served in foil; it became popular in the Mission's taquerías in the 1960s, and which taquería makes the best is a subject of fierce debate.

The Tadich Grill, founded in 1849, is the oldest restaurant still running in California. Domingo Ghirardelli began making chocolate here during the Gold Rush, and the restored Ferry Building on the Embarcadero is now a marketplace of food producers.

Planning tools

Budget

San Francisco is one of the most expensive cities in the United States. Hotels are the largest cost and rise further during big conventions, and restaurant prices, parking and taxes are all high. Transport is the one saving: the city is compact and public transport is good enough that a car is a burden rather than a help.

Daily Budget Midrange
USD 280–500 (mid-range hotel, restaurants with tax and tips, museum tickets, Alcatraz ferry, public transport)
Daily Budget Shoestring
USD 120–190 (hostel bed, taquerías and Chinatown dim sum, Muni and BART)

Book the Alcatraz ferry well ahead in busy seasons; walking the Golden Gate Bridge, the parks, Chinatown and the hills costs nothing.

Best Time to Visit

September and October are the warmest and clearest months — September is on average the warmest of the year, and October is warmer than July. Summer brings the crowds but also fog and cool winds, especially on the western side of the city. The rainy season runs roughly November to April, with mild temperatures.

Suggested Number of Days

Three or four days suit a first visit to the city. Five to seven allow time for the wider Bay Area and the wine valleys to the north. The hills slow walking, and ferry trips are best booked ahead, which can add time.

First Visit
3–4 days
With Surroundings
5–7 days

Transportation

San Francisco has an extensive public transport network. Muni runs buses, trolleybuses, the Muni Metro light rail, historic streetcars along Market Street and the Embarcadero, and the cable cars. BART trains run under Market Street to the East Bay and to the airport, Caltrain runs down the peninsula to San Jose, and ferries cross the bay from the Ferry Building and Pier 39.

Expect long queues for the Powell Street cable cars, especially at weekends; the California Street line is usually much less busy.

Airport & Station Connections

San Francisco International Airport (SFO), a hub for United Airlines, is about 13 miles south of downtown in San Mateo County, and BART trains run from the airport to downtown. Oakland's airport across the bay is also linked by BART. Amtrak trains stop at Emeryville and Oakland, with buses or BART into the city, and drivers arrive over the Golden Gate or Bay bridges or up the peninsula on US 101.

Walkability

The city is small — the mainland is roughly seven miles by seven — and the downtown districts, Chinatown, North Beach and the waterfront are all walkable, but the hills are very steep. Public transport fills the gaps, and the Embarcadero and the Golden Gate Bridge are good long walks. Layers are essential: fog can make some districts cold while others are sunny.

Safety

For most visitors the US is safe, with the main risks being petty theft and car break-ins in tourist areas of some cities, road accidents over long distances, extreme weather, and the hazards of the outdoors. Car break-ins are especially common in San Francisco. Homelessness and open drug use are concentrated in parts of downtown, above all the Tenderloin and around Market Street. The city lies close to the San Andreas Fault.

Never leave anything visible in a parked car, keep phones out of reach on busy transit, and learn the drop, cover and hold on routine for earthquakes. Check current official travel advice before travelling.

Climate

A cool Mediterranean climate: mild, dry summers often grey with fog and wind, and cool, moist winters. Among major US cities San Francisco has the coolest summers. Rain averages about 24 inches a year, almost all between November and April, and the fog is thinner in the eastern neighbourhoods.

Summer
mild and often foggy — summers are the coolest of any major US city, and the monthly mean peaks in September at about 63°F; downtown reaches 80°F on only around 20 days a year
Winter
cool and damp — the January monthly mean is about 51°F, with most of the year's rain falling between November and April

Local Customs

Tipping is expected, at roughly 18–22 per cent in restaurants and about a dollar a drink at a bar. Dress is casual and layered. The city is famously liberal and proud of its LGBTQ history, and locals tend to call it 'the city' or 'SF' rather than 'Frisco'.

Identification is asked for when buying alcohol (the legal age is 21).

Common Payment Methods

The currency is the US dollar. Cards and contactless payment are accepted almost everywhere, and ATMs are easy to find. Prices are shown without sales tax, which is added at the till.