A cobbled riverside street at dawn, lined by old brick warehouses with balconies, tram tracks and leafy trees

The South, United States

Savannah

River Street, the cobbled riverfront promenade of Savannah's old cotton warehouses. (Seasider53 / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0)

Georgia's oldest city, founded in 1733 on a bluff above the Savannah River and laid out by James Oglethorpe on a grid of squares that still shapes its downtown. Cotton made it a rich port; today its historic district of oak-shaded squares, mansions and riverfront warehouses is one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the country, beside one of the busiest container ports.

Neighbourhoods

  • The Historic District and its squares
    • First-time visitors
    • Historic district
    • Architecture

    Oglethorpe's grid of streets and 22 small park-like squares, laid out in five rows. Churches, house museums and 18th- and 19th-century homes face the squares, from Johnson, the largest and first, south to Forsyth Park.

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  • River Street and Factors Walk
    • Nightlife
    • Waterfront
    • Best for food

    The cobbled promenade along the Savannah River below the bluff, where restored 19th-century cotton warehouses hold shops, bars and restaurants. Factors Walk runs along the upper levels of the old cotton offices above, and paddle steamers are berthed along the quay.

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  • City Market
    • Nightlife
    • Best for food
    • Close to the squares

    The restored central market blocks running west from Ellis Square to Franklin Square, with antique and souvenir shops, small eateries, two large outdoor plazas and the American Prohibition Museum.

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  • Victorian District
    • Quiet and residential
    • Architecture

    A mostly residential historic district with streets of late Victorian and Queen Anne houses — quieter than the squares to the north.

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  • Tybee Island
    • Beaches
    • Day trips

    The barrier island and beach town 18 miles east of the city, once officially named Savannah Beach, with public beaches and the historic Tybee Island Light Station.

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Things to do

The squares and Forsyth Park

  • Forsyth Parkpark

    A 30-acre park at the southern end of the historic district, formerly known as the Military Parade Ground, with a large fountain.

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  • Johnson Squarepark

    The first of the squares, laid out in 1733, and still the largest of the 22.

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  • Chippewa Squarepark

    A square laid out in 1815 on Bull Street, in the middle row of the city's five rows of squares.

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  • Monterey Squarepark

    A square of 1847 on Bull Street, overlooked by the Mercer Williams House of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and by the synagogue of Congregation Mickve Israel.

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  • Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptistlandmark

    The Roman Catholic cathedral near Lafayette Square, mother church of the Diocese of Savannah.

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  • First African Baptist Churchlandmark

    A church that traces its congregation to 1773 and claims descent from the first Black Baptist congregation in North America.

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Houses and museums

  • Owens–Thomas Housemuseum

    A house museum on Oglethorpe Square run by Telfair Museums, presented together with its slave quarters.

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  • Telfair Academymuseum

    A mansion of 1818 designed by William Jay, which became a free art museum in 1886 and is the oldest public art museum in the South.

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  • Juliette Gordon Low birthplacemuseum

    The birthplace of the founder of the Girl Scouts of the USA, one of three buildings in a historic district tied to the movement's origins.

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  • Savannah Cotton Exchangelandmark

    Built in 1876 so that cotton factors could meet and set the price of the cotton shipped from the port, now a Freemasons' hall above Factors Walk.

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The river

  • River Streetneighborhood

    Two miles of riverside street and promenade, its best-known stretch lined with restored warehouses full of shops, bars and restaurants.

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  • Factors Walklandmark

    A historic street running along the upper levels of the old cotton offices of Factors Row, between River Street and Bay Street.

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  • Old Fort Jacksonlandmark

    A restored 19th-century brick fort on the Savannah River about a mile east of the city, run by the Coastal Heritage Society.

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Cemeteries

  • Bonaventure Cemeterylandmark

    A rural cemetery on a bluff over the Wilmington River south-east of downtown, on a former plantation, made famous by the book and film Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

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Short trips from the city

  • Wormsloe Historic Sitepark

    An 822-acre state historic site protecting part of an 18th-century plantation estate, with the ruins of a fortified tabby house, a museum and a long avenue of live oaks.

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  • Fort Pulaski National Monumentlandmark

    A brick fort on Cockspur Island where the Union Army's rifled cannon breached the walls in 1862, showing that brick forts were obsolete.

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  • Tybee Islandbeach

    The beach town 18 miles east of the city, with public beaches and a historic lighthouse.

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Seasonal events

  • St. Patrick's DayMarch

    Savannah has hosted St. Patrick's Day celebrations since 1824, and it is one of only two places in the United States where the day is a legal holiday.

  • Savannah Book FestivalPresidents' Day weekend, February

    A book fair around Telfair and Wright squares with free presentations by more than 35 contemporary authors.

Eat and drink

Long-standing places and food districts in Savannah. Hours, ratings and directions come from your maps app, always current.

Savannah classics

  • Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Roomrestaurant

    A popular, informal restaurant of Southern home cooking in a historic house of 1870, run for 59 years by Sema Wilkes.

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  • The Olde Pink Houserestaurant

    A restaurant and tavern on Reynolds Square in a building dating from 1771, once known as Habersham House.

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  • Leopold's Ice Creamcafe

    An ice-cream parlour founded in 1919 by two Greek immigrant brothers, George and Peter Leopold.

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Food districts

  • City Marketmarket

    Small eateries, bars and outdoor plazas in the restored market blocks west of Ellis Square.

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  • River Streetneighborhood

    Restaurants and bars in the old cotton warehouses along the river.

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Experience Savannah

History

On 12 February 1733 General James Oglethorpe and settlers from the ship Anne landed at Yamacraw Bluff above the Savannah River, where they were welcomed by the Yamacraw leader Tomochichi and the traders John and Mary Musgrove. Oglethorpe laid out the town on a plan of wards built around small public squares, a design that downtown still largely keeps. Savannah was the capital of the colony and later the first state capital of Georgia, and silk and indigo were among its early exports to England. By the Revolution it was the southernmost commercial port in the Thirteen Colonies.

After independence, cotton grown on plantations and shipped through the port made the city's merchants rich, and Savannah was a prosperous seaport throughout the 19th century. In the Civil War Union guns breached Fort Pulaski in April 1862, and in December 1864 Savannah was the goal of Sherman's March to the Sea; on 21 December local authorities negotiated a peaceful surrender to spare the city, and Union troops marched in at dawn.

In the 1950s urban development destroyed three squares — Ellis Square was demolished for a parking garage — though the downtown as a whole is now one of the largest National Historic Landmark Districts in the country. The Savannah College of Art and Design was founded in 1978, and John Berendt's 1994 book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil made Bonaventure Cemetery and the Mercer Williams House famous. In 2024 Calhoun Square was renamed Taylor Square.

Culture & Customs

Savannah still calls itself the Hostess City of the South, and its identity is bound up with its squares and its old houses. Christ Church, founded with the colony in 1733, is the longest continuous Christian congregation in Georgia; First African Baptist is one of the oldest African American Baptist congregations in the country, and First Bryan Baptist was organised in 1788; and a Jewish community has been here since 1733, with Congregation Mickve Israel on Monterey Square. Gullah Geechee culture from the coast and islands is part of the city's heritage.

St. Patrick's Day is a high point of the year. The city has hosted celebrations since 1824, and Savannah is one of only two places in the United States where the day is a legal holiday. The songwriter Johnny Mercer was born here, and the novelist Flannery O'Connor grew up here; her childhood home is now a museum. The Savannah Book Festival brings dozens of authors to the squares each February.

The Savannah College of Art and Design gives the city a large student and creative population and owns several historic theatres, among them the Lucas Theatre of 1921. The Savannah Bananas, a barnstorming baseball team, have made their showman's version of the game, Banana Ball, famous far beyond the city.

Daily Life

Savannah had 147,780 people at the 2020 census and an estimated 149,440 in 2025, with about 438,000 in the metropolitan area. The city divides into six main areas — Downtown, Midtown, Southside, Eastside, Westside and the recently annexed Southwest — with more than 100 neighbourhoods.

The port is the backbone of the economy: it is North America's fourth-largest for container traffic and handled 4.9 million containers in 2023. Gulfstream Aerospace builds private jets here, the British equipment maker JCB has its North American headquarters nearby in Pooler, and tourism, hospitals and the colleges — SCAD, Savannah State University and Georgia Southern's Armstrong Campus among them — employ many more.

The city lies just above sea level, and heavy rain and hurricane storm surge bring a real risk of flooding. Violent crime is concentrated in some neighbourhoods and has risen and fallen over the years. Daily life in the historic district mixes residents, students and visitors.

Food

Savannah's cooking is Southern and coastal. Southern home cooking is the speciality of Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room, a casual and popular restaurant in an 1870 house, which Sema Wilkes ran for 59 years. Seafood comes from the marshes and the sea islands, and neighbouring Thunderbolt is a shrimping village.

The Olde Pink House, a restaurant and tavern in a building of 1771 on Reynolds Square, was once known as Habersham House, and Leopold's Ice Cream has been made in the city since 1919, when two Greek immigrant brothers opened their parlour. Across the region, the dishes of the wider South — fried chicken, biscuits, grits, collard greens and cornbread — are everyday fare.

River Street's warehouses hold many of the bars and restaurants that visitors see first, while the City Market blocks offer small eateries, outdoor plazas and evening crowds. Restaurants across the historic district range from casual Southern lunch counters to formal dining rooms.

Planning tools

Budget

Savannah is moderately priced for the South. Inns and hotels in the historic district cost the most, especially in spring and around St. Patrick's Day, when rooms book up and prices peak. Walking the squares, Forsyth Park and River Street costs nothing; house museums and tours charge admission, and the free downtown buses and ferry keep transport costs low.

Daily Budget Midrange
USD 210–400 (historic-district inn or hotel, sit-down dinners with tax and tip, house museums and tours, taxis)
Daily Budget Shoestring
USD 100–160 (motel outside the historic district, Southern lunches and casual seafood, free downtown buses)

Book months ahead for St. Patrick's Day, and look at weekday stays in spring, when weekends are busiest.

Best Time to Visit

Spring and autumn are the most pleasant, with mild temperatures and the squares at their greenest. Summer is long, hot and humid, and the hurricane season brings risk in late summer and autumn — Matthew in 2016 and Debby and Helene in 2024 all affected the city. Winters are mild and often sunny.

Suggested Number of Days

Two or three days suit most first visits to the historic district. Allow four or five to add the beach, the forts and the marshland islands. St. Patrick's Day crowds and summer heat change the pace more than the sights.

First Visit
2–3 days
With Surroundings
4–5 days

Transportation

Chatham Area Transit runs 17 bus routes, plus the fare-free dot service of downtown loops around the historic district and Forsyth Park and a free ferry across the river to Hutchinson Island. Taxis and ride-hailing cover the rest; a car is useful for the beaches, forts and plantations.

Use the free dot buses or walk downtown — parking near the squares is limited.

Airport & Station Connections

Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport lies off Interstate 95, west of the city. Amtrak's Palmetto and Silver Service trains between New York and Miami stop at the city's station. Drivers arrive on I-95, which runs just west of the city, and I-16, which leads into the centre.

Walkability

The historic district is one of the most walkable places in the South: a flat grid where a square appears every few blocks, from the river to Forsyth Park. River Street, below the bluff, is cobbled. Summer heat and humidity make midday walking tiring.

Safety

For most visitors the US is safe, with the main risks being petty theft and car break-ins in tourist areas of some cities, road accidents over long distances, extreme weather, and the hazards of the outdoors. Savannah's historic district is busy and well used, but violent crime exists in parts of the city and rose sharply in 2015. Flooding and hurricanes are the main natural hazards: the city sits just above sea level.

Keep to busy streets or use ride-hailing late at night, leave nothing in parked cars, and follow evacuation orders in hurricane season. Check current official travel advice before travelling.

Climate

A humid subtropical climate with long, hot, humid summers and mild, sunny winters. The city is at risk from hurricanes, especially at the height of the season, though it was seldom hit in the 20th century.

Summer
hot and very humid, with high dewpoints and afternoon storms; the record high is 105°F
Winter
mild and sunny — January highs average about 61°F, with around 21 nights below freezing a year

Local Customs

Tipping of roughly 18–22 per cent in restaurants is expected. Southern hospitality is part of the city's identity — it still calls itself the Hostess City of the South — and greetings, 'sir' and 'ma'am' are normal. Gullah Geechee culture and long-established Black churches are part of Savannah's heritage.

Churches and synagogues facing the squares are active places of worship; many historic houses are private homes. Bonaventure is a working cemetery — keep to the paths and respect burials.

Common Payment Methods

The currency is the US dollar. Cards and contactless payment are accepted almost everywhere; small bills are useful for tips and tours.